Do you know that dog allergies happen quite more often than many people might suspect? Problems that can arise from these kinds of allergies include the internal organs and also the skin areas. The digestive system is also known to suffer as well.
These allergies develop due to their dogs consuming the usual diet for a prolonged window of time. Data has proven that dogs who have eaten the same type of food for more than 24 months often are the main causes of these dog allergies.
Yes this is not easy to distinguish initially as many pet owners are not aware what might be causing these allergies to their dogs. There are a few factors that can cause this besides food- induced allergens. One reason can be due to the change in seasons of the year.
Do not underestimate this factor as often the dust or weeds can wreak havoc on your dogs immune system. Take note that if you dog suffer from allergies only due certain times of the year then there is a good chance that this is due to seasonal factors. Or if your pet dog suffers from problems in their skin or ear during their puppy stages, then it is likely heredity and points to genetic factors.
Among the many ingredients found in dog food, your pet can react badly to any of them. Generally speaking milk products and dairy-related stuff will more often than not cause allergy problem among dogs. Look out for certain kinds of meats like beef or grain like products.
These food produce sometimes contains artificial flavorings that can create allergic reactions for your pooch. Lastly for food-related factors, take very careful note of fruits as they can also cause problems for your pet dog.
As always, the best advice is that if you think your pet dog is itching or showing any symptoms of dog allergies, take them immediately to the veterinarian. Get a full body checkup. These tests can usually spot right away what are the true issues that your dog is suffering from.
If you dont really like the idea of sending your beloved dog to the vet just yet, you could try to remedy it yourself if the conditions are not serious. One way is to first remove all the normal foods your dog normally eats. Then slowly introduce back each ingredient back into their diet. Once you see the allergy signs appearing after adding in enough food ingredients, you can isolate and guess what the allergic-causing agents are.
Try out this method for some time, say about a month or two. If you achieve good results with it than you may not need to visit the vet any longer. However if the situation persist, then its time to see the doctor.
As a side note, certain dog breeds are more prone to allergies than others. They are labrador retrievers, terriers and bull dogs.
Peter Pesce
UltimateGifts.com
Ultimatehunters.net
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Monday, February 2, 2009
Remove rust from your Gun
Removing rust from a gun without damaging the finish of your gun can be tricky if you don't know how, but there's really nothing to it. Keeping your gun free of rust helps preserve your gun's beauty and value.
- Find some light oil, fine steel wool, and a suitable work surface that won't scratch up your gun.
- Check whether the gun is loaded; if so, unload it
- Apply some oil on and around any rust spots.
- Making sure to keep oil present at all times (add some if you need to), gently rub rusty area with steel wool.
- Wipe with an old rag or paper towel occasionally to remove rusty oil and to inspect the surface.
- Repeat as necessary until no rust is left.
- Apply a light, even coat of oil to all
- Never use Sandpaper to remove rust from your Gun!
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Friday, June 13, 2008
Wild Hog Hunting Tips
Many hunters take to the woods each year in pursuit of wild hogs. This is a good thing - it's nice to stay in practice when it's not deer season, the meat is nice in the freezer, and wild boars can be a real nuisance in many areas. Many of the folks running around the woods after hogs are primarily deer hunters, and don't really know just where to shoot a hog to get its vitals. Where are its vitals? We're about to answer that question.
Ideally, a shot on a broadside hog should be placed in the shoulder area, and lower is preferable. Just be careful not to aim so low that you shoot under the swine. If the animal is quartering towards or away from you, you'll want to place the shot so the bullet will end up in the vitals between the shoulders. Naturally, this requires a bullet that will penetrate well.
Much talk has been put forth about shooting hogs in the head, and that can definitely be a killing shot, provided you hit the brain. Make note of the fact that a hog's brain is a small target, and is well protected by its thick skull. Here again, a tough bullet with good penetration is key.
22 Rimfire?
The old "behind-the-ear-with-a-22" story is one that I believe has been talked about much more than it has been successfully practiced. In a slaughter situation where the shooter is close to the hog, there's no doubt that it can work, but it's certainly not foolproof, and shouldn't be tried at a distance. Bullets used in rimfire cartridges, especially 22 long rifle, are usually quite soft, and don't penetrate well. Such a bullet will flatten out on the bone of the skull and won't get the job done.
Break it Down
A broken shoulder will put a hog down on the spot, just as it will with a deer or other game animal. This can be a great help, allowing for a fast follow-up shot if it's necessary. Ideally, you don't want to have to trail your animal - you want to kill it quickly and efficiently, and in the case of a mature hog, you don't want it coming after you with those nasty sharp tusks.
Use Enough Gun
How much gun is enough? Hmmm. That depends on the hog and bullet placement, mainly. As a rule, I would start with any cartridge in the class of the old reliable 30-30 Winchester. This offers plenty of oomph for most hogs, especially with 170-grain bullets of suitable construction. Smaller hogs can be killed with lesser cartridges, and larger boars would be best approached with something heavier. I would not hunt hogs with any rimfire cartridge, unless I were dealing with very small young pigs.
Overkill
As far as how much gun is too much, there's pretty much no such thing, in my opinion. You can't kill a critter deader than dead, so claims of "overkill" are usually just so much BS, and should be ignored. No matter what gun you choose, ammo selection is just as important.
Ammo Selection
You want a bullet that's tough enough to penetrate, with enough diameter to deliver plenty of knockdown power. I prefer heavy bullets, but not necessarily the very heaviest available for a given cartridge. For instance, in 30-06, I like 180-grain bullets. For 270 Win, which is about the smallest diameter I would be comfortable with, make it a 150. In my 45-70 I generally load 300-grain jacketed bullets moving at a respectable velocity. In 44 mag, a 240-grain jacketed bullet is the best all-around hunting slug I've found, but if I were hunting big ol' boars with it I might go with something heavier.
Think of a hog as being tougher and more dangerous than a deer, because they can certainly be both, and usually are. And their differently-constructed bodies call for different approaches than deer. The fat and gristle that exists on the outside of even domesticated hogs can cause trouble.
A friend of mine once shot a smallish hog in the shoulder with his 30-06 using 150-grain bullets, which he had often used successfully on deer. It was not a straight-on shoulder shot, and actually removed a large chunk of fat and hide from the shoulder, but the hog neither went down nor left a blood trail. We lucked into it while searching and I was able to finish it with a 44 mag to the shoulder. No contest, at a range of a few feet.
There have also been numerous tales of soft bullets actually flattening against the tough shield of gristle and fat that lies outside the shoulders of "sure-nuff" mature wild boars. I believe this is very possible, and it should be considered when choosing your ammo. The shield can also prevent a good blood trail even when the bullet penetrates well in this area.
Bottom Line
So what's the overall synopsis here? Mainly, that you want to use enough gun to do the job (and hopefully allow for a margin of error, because we're not perfect) and you want to hit the critter in the right place. If the hog is nice and close and calm and you have a steady rest, you might go for a brain shot, aiming towards the rear of the head... but the shoulder shot is the best meat-getter of them all.
Never forget that it's better to lose a little meat around the shoulder than to lose the entire animal because you took a risky shot to "save meat."
If you're hunting from an elevated stand, then placing the shot between the shoulders might be the best choice. Always remember where the vitals are - between those shoulders - and aim accordingly. Use ammo that will penetrate with enough diameter to do the job efficiently. And enjoy the barbecue when the hunt is over!
Ideally, a shot on a broadside hog should be placed in the shoulder area, and lower is preferable. Just be careful not to aim so low that you shoot under the swine. If the animal is quartering towards or away from you, you'll want to place the shot so the bullet will end up in the vitals between the shoulders. Naturally, this requires a bullet that will penetrate well.
Much talk has been put forth about shooting hogs in the head, and that can definitely be a killing shot, provided you hit the brain. Make note of the fact that a hog's brain is a small target, and is well protected by its thick skull. Here again, a tough bullet with good penetration is key.
22 Rimfire?
The old "behind-the-ear-with-a-22" story is one that I believe has been talked about much more than it has been successfully practiced. In a slaughter situation where the shooter is close to the hog, there's no doubt that it can work, but it's certainly not foolproof, and shouldn't be tried at a distance. Bullets used in rimfire cartridges, especially 22 long rifle, are usually quite soft, and don't penetrate well. Such a bullet will flatten out on the bone of the skull and won't get the job done.
Break it Down
A broken shoulder will put a hog down on the spot, just as it will with a deer or other game animal. This can be a great help, allowing for a fast follow-up shot if it's necessary. Ideally, you don't want to have to trail your animal - you want to kill it quickly and efficiently, and in the case of a mature hog, you don't want it coming after you with those nasty sharp tusks.
Use Enough Gun
How much gun is enough? Hmmm. That depends on the hog and bullet placement, mainly. As a rule, I would start with any cartridge in the class of the old reliable 30-30 Winchester. This offers plenty of oomph for most hogs, especially with 170-grain bullets of suitable construction. Smaller hogs can be killed with lesser cartridges, and larger boars would be best approached with something heavier. I would not hunt hogs with any rimfire cartridge, unless I were dealing with very small young pigs.
Overkill
As far as how much gun is too much, there's pretty much no such thing, in my opinion. You can't kill a critter deader than dead, so claims of "overkill" are usually just so much BS, and should be ignored. No matter what gun you choose, ammo selection is just as important.
Ammo Selection
You want a bullet that's tough enough to penetrate, with enough diameter to deliver plenty of knockdown power. I prefer heavy bullets, but not necessarily the very heaviest available for a given cartridge. For instance, in 30-06, I like 180-grain bullets. For 270 Win, which is about the smallest diameter I would be comfortable with, make it a 150. In my 45-70 I generally load 300-grain jacketed bullets moving at a respectable velocity. In 44 mag, a 240-grain jacketed bullet is the best all-around hunting slug I've found, but if I were hunting big ol' boars with it I might go with something heavier.
Think of a hog as being tougher and more dangerous than a deer, because they can certainly be both, and usually are. And their differently-constructed bodies call for different approaches than deer. The fat and gristle that exists on the outside of even domesticated hogs can cause trouble.
A friend of mine once shot a smallish hog in the shoulder with his 30-06 using 150-grain bullets, which he had often used successfully on deer. It was not a straight-on shoulder shot, and actually removed a large chunk of fat and hide from the shoulder, but the hog neither went down nor left a blood trail. We lucked into it while searching and I was able to finish it with a 44 mag to the shoulder. No contest, at a range of a few feet.
There have also been numerous tales of soft bullets actually flattening against the tough shield of gristle and fat that lies outside the shoulders of "sure-nuff" mature wild boars. I believe this is very possible, and it should be considered when choosing your ammo. The shield can also prevent a good blood trail even when the bullet penetrates well in this area.
Bottom Line
So what's the overall synopsis here? Mainly, that you want to use enough gun to do the job (and hopefully allow for a margin of error, because we're not perfect) and you want to hit the critter in the right place. If the hog is nice and close and calm and you have a steady rest, you might go for a brain shot, aiming towards the rear of the head... but the shoulder shot is the best meat-getter of them all.
Never forget that it's better to lose a little meat around the shoulder than to lose the entire animal because you took a risky shot to "save meat."
If you're hunting from an elevated stand, then placing the shot between the shoulders might be the best choice. Always remember where the vitals are - between those shoulders - and aim accordingly. Use ammo that will penetrate with enough diameter to do the job efficiently. And enjoy the barbecue when the hunt is over!
Monday, February 11, 2008
Three Steps To Proper Gun Maintenance
1. Exterior Firearms Maintenance: It is important to wipe down the exterior metal surfaces of firearm with a thin coat of gun oil such as Rem® Oil after each use in the field. The goal of exterior maintenance is simply to ensure that rust does not develop on your gun. A cheese cloth or other soft rag with small amount of Rem® Oil on it should do the trick! Why use gun oil versus other oils on the market? Well, water displacing Oils such as WD-40® can actually have a reverse effect on proper maintenance, according to Warden. “If this type of oil is left on the surface of a gun or it pools up in the action, it can actually begin to gum-up, harden and even varnish surfaces, leaving a cloudy, permanent and damaging finish.”
2. Bore and Action Maintenance: It is equally, if not more important to maintain your firearms bore and action. First, keep the bore clean on a routine basis by utilizing a snake or rod device. Bore Snakes® or cleaning rods attached with patches, brushes and swabs can easily do the trick on dirty bores. In fact, when it comes to routine bore cleaning, ie. rods and snakes, Warden cautions that “it is important to clean from the chamber-end when ever possible.” This is most important for rifles, as cleaning rods have the potential to damage or wear out the crown of the rifle, thereby permanently damaging its accuracy. When it’s time to work on the copper fouling, Warden suggests using a foaming bore cleaner such as Wipe-Out™. These types of cleaners work slow and steady and require minimal scrubbing to remove the the copper fouling that builds up in rifle bores over time. The one caution to any bore cleaner is to be careful not to get it on wood (only use wood finishing oils on wood surfaces), synthetic or dipped finish surfaces as they can cause streaks and other damage. Finish by running a lightly oiled patch through the bore. Then, before the first use in the field, run a dry patch through to ensure any oil residue is removed before the first shot. As a general rule for rifles, only thoroughly clean the bore about every 50 rounds. “It’s important to know the difference between fouling and a dirty bore” states McGeehee. “Every 50 rounds seems like a long time to go between bore scrubs, but the main concern to inaccuracy is copper fouling not carbon residue left after each shot, and it takes time for copper fouling to build up.” Shotguns are another story... According to McGeehee, “shotgun bores really only require a thorough bore scrubbing after approximately 500 rounds.” For both rifles and shotguns, it's a good idea to run a snake or rod through the bore before and after each use in the field to ensure there are no obstructions present.
When it comes to actions, they both went on to say that it is of the utmost importance to keep them clean. For both rifle and shotgun actions, it’s going to be carbon fouling, combined with gummed-up oil, grease, dirt or the combination of each that causes the majority of problems. Here, Warden and McGeehee suggest a once per year ultrasonic cleansing. This Crest Ultrasonic System will be detailed in the next section. There are a few other steps to maintaining a clean action that can be performed if you have the right tools.
First, arm yourself with a little GumOut®, a toothbrush, an air compressor and a bit of Rem® Oil. Begin by blowing out the action with the compressed air. Next lightly spray the GumOut® in the action (careful to keep it confined to the action), and lightly scrub with the toothbrush or similar tool. Again blow out the action with the compressed air. Finally, cover the action with a thin coat of Rem® Oil and then blow out the action one last time to ensure that only a very thin layer of oil remains. Be sure never to grease your action as this will only exacerbate future problems.
The above mentioned is a fairly complex process and not everyone will have access to an air compressor to complete this task. As mentioned, a good preventative maintenance alternative is the ultrasonic cleaning performed by Midwest Gun Works.
3. Ultrasonic Cleaning: Ultrasonic cleaning ensures that actions are brought back to perfectly clean metal surfaces. The device that MGW utilizes for this process is the Crest Ultrasonic Cleansing System. MGW will completely disassemble your gun and prepare it for the Crest Ultrasonic Cleansing System. Once placed in the heated solution, the ultrasonic process begins. This process completely eliminates all carbon fouling in the action and removes oil, grease and residue build up. The Crest Ultrasonic Cleansing System is safe for blued, matte or dipped finishes. MGW will then re-oil your firearm with a thin coat of a premier oil that won’t thicken or bind over time. Finally MGW will reassemble your firearm and have it ready for use in the field for just under $100. For more information on this service and other gunsmithing and restorative services, parts and retail accessories, visit their website at www.midwestgunworks.com .
2. Bore and Action Maintenance: It is equally, if not more important to maintain your firearms bore and action. First, keep the bore clean on a routine basis by utilizing a snake or rod device. Bore Snakes® or cleaning rods attached with patches, brushes and swabs can easily do the trick on dirty bores. In fact, when it comes to routine bore cleaning, ie. rods and snakes, Warden cautions that “it is important to clean from the chamber-end when ever possible.” This is most important for rifles, as cleaning rods have the potential to damage or wear out the crown of the rifle, thereby permanently damaging its accuracy. When it’s time to work on the copper fouling, Warden suggests using a foaming bore cleaner such as Wipe-Out™. These types of cleaners work slow and steady and require minimal scrubbing to remove the the copper fouling that builds up in rifle bores over time. The one caution to any bore cleaner is to be careful not to get it on wood (only use wood finishing oils on wood surfaces), synthetic or dipped finish surfaces as they can cause streaks and other damage. Finish by running a lightly oiled patch through the bore. Then, before the first use in the field, run a dry patch through to ensure any oil residue is removed before the first shot. As a general rule for rifles, only thoroughly clean the bore about every 50 rounds. “It’s important to know the difference between fouling and a dirty bore” states McGeehee. “Every 50 rounds seems like a long time to go between bore scrubs, but the main concern to inaccuracy is copper fouling not carbon residue left after each shot, and it takes time for copper fouling to build up.” Shotguns are another story... According to McGeehee, “shotgun bores really only require a thorough bore scrubbing after approximately 500 rounds.” For both rifles and shotguns, it's a good idea to run a snake or rod through the bore before and after each use in the field to ensure there are no obstructions present.
When it comes to actions, they both went on to say that it is of the utmost importance to keep them clean. For both rifle and shotgun actions, it’s going to be carbon fouling, combined with gummed-up oil, grease, dirt or the combination of each that causes the majority of problems. Here, Warden and McGeehee suggest a once per year ultrasonic cleansing. This Crest Ultrasonic System will be detailed in the next section. There are a few other steps to maintaining a clean action that can be performed if you have the right tools.
First, arm yourself with a little GumOut®, a toothbrush, an air compressor and a bit of Rem® Oil. Begin by blowing out the action with the compressed air. Next lightly spray the GumOut® in the action (careful to keep it confined to the action), and lightly scrub with the toothbrush or similar tool. Again blow out the action with the compressed air. Finally, cover the action with a thin coat of Rem® Oil and then blow out the action one last time to ensure that only a very thin layer of oil remains. Be sure never to grease your action as this will only exacerbate future problems.
The above mentioned is a fairly complex process and not everyone will have access to an air compressor to complete this task. As mentioned, a good preventative maintenance alternative is the ultrasonic cleaning performed by Midwest Gun Works.
3. Ultrasonic Cleaning: Ultrasonic cleaning ensures that actions are brought back to perfectly clean metal surfaces. The device that MGW utilizes for this process is the Crest Ultrasonic Cleansing System. MGW will completely disassemble your gun and prepare it for the Crest Ultrasonic Cleansing System. Once placed in the heated solution, the ultrasonic process begins. This process completely eliminates all carbon fouling in the action and removes oil, grease and residue build up. The Crest Ultrasonic Cleansing System is safe for blued, matte or dipped finishes. MGW will then re-oil your firearm with a thin coat of a premier oil that won’t thicken or bind over time. Finally MGW will reassemble your firearm and have it ready for use in the field for just under $100. For more information on this service and other gunsmithing and restorative services, parts and retail accessories, visit their website at www.midwestgunworks.com .
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Win a Statewide Colorado Moose Tag
Every year, the Colorado chapter of Safari Club International sponsors a raffle for a statewide Colorado moose tag. Colorado has huge trophy Shiras moose and great outfitters to help you find them (and pack them out...).
Proceeds from the raffle benefit the Colorado Division of Wildlife, with 75% of the funds earmarked for Colorado's active and highly successful moose management projects.
Tickets are $25 each, or 5 for $100.
Only about 1,100 tickets were sold last year, so if you buy a few tickets, you can help out a good cause, get surprisingly good odds, and avoid having to accumulate years of preference points that would otherwise be required to have a shot at a tag like this.
Entries must be postmarked by March 8th.
The drawing will be held on March 15th.
To order tickets, use this form from SCI-Colorado.
Good luck and thanks for supporting a good cause ....
Proceeds from the raffle benefit the Colorado Division of Wildlife, with 75% of the funds earmarked for Colorado's active and highly successful moose management projects.
Tickets are $25 each, or 5 for $100.
Only about 1,100 tickets were sold last year, so if you buy a few tickets, you can help out a good cause, get surprisingly good odds, and avoid having to accumulate years of preference points that would otherwise be required to have a shot at a tag like this.
Entries must be postmarked by March 8th.
The drawing will be held on March 15th.
To order tickets, use this form from SCI-Colorado.
Good luck and thanks for supporting a good cause ....
Need a Place to hunt Turkey in Kansas?
The Kansas Army Ammunition Plant will conduct a public drawing for a limited number of spring turkey hunters this year. The three-day hunt will be held April 11-13. All hunters must be at least 16 years old and have successfully completed a hunter education course. Applications must be received by February 29.
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